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I have eaten and have paid my meals in all the restaurants recommended here."

Thursday, August 19, 2010

35 Degrés Ouest - Paris (75007)

35 Degrés Ouest
35, rue de Verneuil
75007 Paris
Tel : 01 42 86 98 88
Closed Sunday and Monday










The pitch

I discovered this restaurant thanks to Chrisoscope’s Top 5. It’s located in the very chic rue de Verneuil and is completely worth the €30 effort at lunchtime. At last a fish speciality place! In the evening with €48 per dish, it’s a bit more complicated for me.

I’m saying ‘at last’ because finding a good fish restaurant is not an easy thing. The beast is noble and wild, rough and delicate all at once. You need a kitchen that will be able to respect it (the simpler the better) whilst still daring to cook it, without then getting too obsequious about it! The sea doesn’t generally bow to anyone.

The cuisine here goes straight to the point and the produce feels freshly pulled out of the water. The service definitely plays an important part in this celebration of fish.










The restaurant

I like this type of restaurant: small, sophisticated and calm, with a warm and simple service. Ideal for a romantic diner or a small-scale family meal.



The meal
The set meals belong to another price world than the menu, very clever pricing.
€29: starter, main, coffee, a glass of wine or ½ bottle of mineral water.













Starters
We start with fried halibut: faultless! It’s crunchy enough and the oil doesn’t take over, you can fully taste the subtle flavour of the fresh fish. Spot on.









My whelks were perfect, a real treat: fat and fresh, served with a spiced sauce that enhanced them nicely.









Mains
We carried on with a pan-fried bream, courgettes (zucchini) and thyme. The guest who had it was overjoyed.









salt cod brandade (1) and mixed leaf salad. Really very good, I was just sorry that there wasn’t more of it and that it wasn’t warmer. I personally like my brandade piping hot (after all, mashed potato is a warming thing).









While we’re at it, I didn’t really get the point of the sauce around it. It was difficult to handle and because the whole thing wasn’t very hot I was more interested in getting the mouthful in rather than taking it for a spin around the plate to gather sauce.

But again, it was very good.

Dessert coffee served with panacotta for an extra €2.80: it’s worth it, the panacotta is excellent, not too creamy, the raspberry is present and alive, without being too sweet.



















Our wine was a Côtes du Roussillon Village. Thankfully the person with me didn’t drink any. Just one glass for a meal of such quality would’ve been a shame but ordering wine from the menu might have seriously affected the bill.













Conclusion

I may have sounded slightly unsure about the brandade just because I don’t think that it should be a priority in a classy restaurant that specializes in fresh fish. It doesn’t take anything away from the quality of the meal and of the service and I was able to really taste the incredible freshness of the produce with the whelks. My guest had a great meal from beginning to end with the fried smelt and the bream.

So there you go : a great lunch option in a category which used to be tricky. And before I forget: You’ll feel really at ease here!

Note: 35 degrees west corresponds to the middle of the Atlantic Ocean between France and the USA.

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