4, rue des Grands Augustins
Tel : 01 44 32 00 33
I had been hearing about it for ages and I must say that I was allergic to the name. But after hearing it praised everywhere by people from very different backgrounds, I thought it was time to move on. The chef William Ledeuil was crowned ‘best chef of the year’ in October by Gault et Millau.
In a nutshell: not only is the food great, even if at €39 for a starter, a
‘a la plancha’ main (1) and a dessert ,it’s not affordable to all purses, but the service is also considerate, young, serious and all in good spirit.
It’s actually the complete opposite of what the name - and all the hype around the place - was making me dread…They take the job seriously here and what you can see of the kitchen from your table proves it.
It’s sound, inventive and well executed without being arrogant: it has a rightful place in these pages.
We zigzagged between the daily specials and the menu.
Black Bigorre pork croquettes with Thai herbs.
Challans duck and grilled foie gras with beetroot juice and ginger.
Cod (it was the daily special but I forgot the exact name of the dish. Sorry).
A white chocolate and wasabi ice-cream, pistachio sauce and a green tea emulsion.
My only regret was that the starter wasn’t quite warm enough but I later read in Figaroscope that it is the current trend. Personally I like my broth to be HOT.
Apart from that it was well thought out and light, the fish was magnificently cooked and the ice-cream was insanely good.
To be honest though, I have to admit that it’s the kind of meal that my taste buds can’t fully remember a few days later. The studied association of flavours and the relatively small portions make it quite tricky for me to keep a clear imprint of the meal. I wouldn’t want to pin some pseudo poetry on such refined textures.
What stays with me is a general impression: it was light and pleasurable.
I would describe it as follows: A light and refined meal served by a considerate and approachable waiting staff. We are perfectly at ease in our discovery of an inventive cuisine that never forgets to please the customer.
This is the sign of a well-run establishment: the kitchen and the floor work together.
(1)cooked on a thick iron plate