New 716 website

On 716 que je vois la vie, I recommend restaurants (716 Food), music (716 Music) & I propose my special Paris Tours (Le Vrai Paris).

I have eaten and have paid my meals in all the restaurants recommended here."

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Pulcinella - Paris (75018)

Trattoria Pulcinella
2, rue Eugène Sue
75018 Paris
Tél :
Open daily lunch and dinner except sunday lunch

That’s it ! I think I’ve found the good Italian eatery I had been searching for for so long.

2 daily specials + 1 glass of wine + 2 desserts + coffees : €50, 25 per head.
Pizzas : from €8 to €12.

The restaurant
A lively and noisy little trattoria.
You have a choice between nice diner tables and funkier wooden ones that are actually foldable garden tables. And you instantly feel at ease. Thanks to the genuine welcome of the friendly waitress.
There’s two of them here ; her and the chef who cooks in front of us.
He kindly calls out to a punter : "your pizza ? do you want it now or shall I send it after ?"
The specials board is put on our table : "Oggi"

I’m not too sure so I ask for advice, the waitress answers without any hesitation : the linguine al frutti di mare, it’s very fresh ! €16. Done ! My guest orders a gnocchi, tomato, mozzarella and parmesan gratin. €12
Wow, the linguine, amazing. With the seafood I saw myself back in Sardinia : 2 king size prawns, mussels and clams. It wasn’t too filing or packed with sea food (even if the picture might suggest otherwise) nor complicated to eat but it was generous enough. In a word : perfect !
And the patatoe gnocchi, spot on too ! And beautifully tucked under the simmering gratin crust.

Why stop when things have started so well ?
I had a Panacotta : never seen one like that. No cheesy glass with red fruit coulis here… A Madagascar vanilla flavoured Panacotta on a plate and held with gelatine : to die for !
Next to it, a Cantuccio : cappuccino whipped cream with grilled almonds : oh yeah !

We finish off with two coffees.
Delicious ! I was as happy as Larry… when he eats in a good Italian.
A little story that says it all : We stayed on for a while and as the place was emptying the cook came to sit with some clients and asked his colleague to bring him a Margarita he had kept on the side. The people at the table were surprised and said ‘but it’s cold’ and he replied « the margarita is the queen of pizzas’
You see what I mean ?

The back story
Why the devil have Italian restaurants become so expensive and trendy ? Italian cuisine is authentic and what goes for crepes (another source of sadness) applies to pizzas : originally a simple affordable specialty. I hear unanimous reviews about Pizza Chic « yes the pizza is at € 16 but it’s very good’. And my Italian friends go nuts: a €16 pizza ! Are you taking the piss ? A friend who’s Dad had a pizzeria in a suburb for many years told him : yes, there were excellent Italian restaurants in Paris in the 80’s.
What do we get today ? Pasta at a starting price of €16 (sometimes flirting with €23) an uber-trendy atmosphere, cash only, meat pretty much limited to escalope.
We’re very far from the trattorias in Italy. I can accept that ingredients are expensive but still, there must be one ! Si I would regularly ask « do you know of a good friendly Italian, not too trendy, that doesn’t murder you with its prices ?

Of course there must be other ones and I’m up for discovering them…but in the meantime, this one…Oh dear !
This one had been recommended by a trustworthy person. When I read the email « i notice that you don’t have an italian on your blog, I have a favourite one in Paris’ I was all ears ! Well, I‘ve been and it was so great that now I have to take people to see if it lives up to its standard on the long run. Because if it does, we’re in for some great times !


Post a Comment